Tag Archives: Kaffe Fassett

Two Hearts

2 hearts

 

The red heart is appliquéd to the green one – now I am going to appliqué this unit to the wiggly turquoise heart.

The edge of the green heart behind the red one is not even. I cut my templates very accurately – so I am assuming Kim McLean meant it to be a bit wonky. I was going to redraw the heart templates – but decided to leave it this way – for a folk art handmade look.

 

Click twice on the photo for a closer view .

Three hearts prepped

turquoise heart finished

I am very proud of my smooth edges. Click on the pictures to see a close up.

3 hearts prepped

I decided to change the fabric in the center heart. I thought the other one was a little too sophisticated – Philip Jacobs’ large florals usually are. This one with the pink  polka dots is more whimsical – which is the look I am going for. I had a large piece left over from the backing on my Kaffe Challenge quilt.

3 hearts on background

 

Here it is on the background I am going to use. It is Kaffe Spots in the Sprout colorway. I have tons of it that I bought to make Kim McLean’s Lollypop Tress pattern.

I have to mark the vertical and horizontal lines with big stitches – then I will start sewing. I haven’t done any appliqué since I finished my Angel quilt in 2010. I had to watch a how to do the appliqué stitch video on YouTube to refresh my memory – that is how rusty I am.

 

New Appliqué project

Hearts and FlowersThe pattern is Hearts and Flowers designed by Kim McLean from Kaffe Fassett’s book “Quilt Romance.” It is 78″ x 78″ – so most of the appliqué pieces are large. There is a lot of machine piecing  – and not really that much appliqué – it should go together fairly quickly.

trimming around template

I will be hand appliquéing it. I am using the glue stick with freezer paper on top method. For the big wiggly edged heart I used two pieces of 12″x15″ Jenkins freezer paper ironed together to make a stiff template. Trimming around the template is slow going – I love the appliqué prep – so I don’t mind.  On the left you can see one “finger” I have glued back – just a test. I will wait until I finish all the trimming to start the gluing.

The appliqué shapes in Kim’s patterns have soft rounded edges – so they are easy to prep and sew – very few pointy points or sharp V insies. Kim designs her patterns using Kaffe Collective fabrics  – and ya’ll know I LOVE Kaffe fabrics! I don’t ever copy the pattern in the book or on the package – I love choosing my own fabric combinations.

heart window

This is the print I am using for the center heart. I cut a window in a file folder to audition the few pieces I have that are big enough. For this heart I need more than my usual quarter yard – a FQ would work – but 99.9% of my quarter yards  are linear (9″x 42″) and I can’t fit the whole heart on without a seam down the middle. I don’t have many large pieces to choose from – but I think this works – it’s certainly bright!

green border

The narrow inner border between the pink center heart and the turquoise wiggly edged heart will be lime green. I think. I may change my mind when I see the three of them together – we’ll see…

So here we go – a new project – I feel energized.

Between Sunrise And Sunset

DONE!! This picture shows the bias binding,  all four corners, the backing and the hanging sleeve and the label. The hanging sleeve looks a little wrinkly because it  has a 1″ give in it. This is the first time I have made a sleeve like that – but from what I read the give will allow the quilt to hang better. Click on the picture to see my beautiful mitered corners up close. I am very proud of them :-)

Finished #2

The octagons are blocked

The hardest part was making the “blocking boards.” We had to use plywood since we don’t have  24″x 8′ – 1″ thick – interlocking styrofoam in Panama – which is what my quilter Margaret Gunn uses in her blocking tutorial. My husband David deemed the 1/4″ plywood to “floppy” so we used 3/4″ – which is heavy as hell!

We had some carpet remnants left over from redecorating our office building – so we used them – it would have been much easier, quicker and neater with two pieces of 4′ x 8′ carpet.

1 two pieces of plywood

We moved all the studio furniture to the back – and thank goodness there was enough room on the floor for an 8′ x 8′ table. We had to move the beading workbench outside on the patio because there wasn’t enough room to comfortably walk around the table.

2 tools to make the blocking boards

Here are some of the items we used to make the table – we ended up using two gallons of the contact cement. Well… not quite two – we knocked over the can and spilled quite a bit. What a mess that was! A real Laurel and Hardy moment as we tried to keep the puddle from spreading and getting all over the front of the carpet.

4 David gluing the back of carpet

Here is David applying the contact cement to the back of one of the pieces of the carpet.

3 sticking carpet to plywood

I walked up and down on the freshly glued carpet until I thought my legs would drop off. It just didn’t want to stick – it kept bubbling up. It could have had something to do with not waiting the 20 minutes until the contact cement dried on the wood and the carpet before joining them. When all else fails read the directions. We learned our lesson and waited on the other pieces.

5 joining two plywood pieces

This is how David joined the two pieces of plywood and he used 4 bigger ones underneath because it was bowing in the center. The plywood is on two large banquet tables. That is Laura in the corner.

6 covered rug with sheet

I didn’t want the quilt to touch the carpet so I pinned an old Indian sheet down as a barrier.

I filled the washing machine up to the top – added the quilt and 6 color catchers – no soap – just tepid water. I swirled it around in the water with my hands – I didn’t turn on the machine to agitate it. I let it soak for a few minutes then emptied the machine and let the spinner run for a bit – I wanted it damp – but not too dry. The color catchers came out with purple stains – but I don’t see any stains or running on the quilt.

8 laser

This is the laser level we used to square up the quilt. I ordered it from Amazon – I decided on this model when I read one of the customer comments from a quilter. The flash on the camera is so bright you can’t see the red laser line in the photo.

It sure beats using rulers and set squares. A bright – very visible red line shoots out in both directions and all you have to do is pull and tug and massage the seam of the quilt into place.

9 laser on center blocks

We made sure that the blocks in the center of the quilt were also in line  – not just the borders. We really didn’t have to pull and push very much – the quilt was amazingly square straight out of the washing machine. Nothing was really wonky – just a few minor adjustments to get everything squared up.

10Blocked

Here it is – blocked.  I left the air conditioner running at its coldest last night. The surface was dry to the touch this morning – but I am not going to move it until tomorrow morning. I have the AC on now and I will leave it on again tonight. It is freezing in here now!

12 is that straight or what!

 

Is that straight or what!! We measured across the diagonals with a metal measuring tape – and they turned out exactly the same – 89 and 7/8 ths inches. The quilt is supposed to be square but it is off by 15/16 ths of an inch. We certainly weren’t going to pull out all the carefully placed pins and start over for such a small difference.

Tomorrow, before removing the pins I am going to mark the cutting line on the border. Then I will sew one or two lines (with very small stitches) just inside the cutting line. This stitching will make sure the quilting stitches will not unravel when I trim the border to 5 inches. They will be hidden in the binding. I would not have thought to do this step – but my quilter Margaret said it was very important since I would be cutting into the quilting lines.

 

 

I can’t wait to get this plywood out of the studio – the smell of the contact cement is overpowering. I don’t know what I am going to do if the quilt smells like contact cement. I guess I will have to spray it with Fabreeze and air it outside – if it will ever stop raining.

 

Bias ironed

bias ironed

Still haven’t blocked the quilt.  I wanted to do it yesterday but Fathers’s Day festivities lasted longer than I expected. I could do it myself – but my husband wants to help – so I have to wait till the weekend.

Meanwhile the bias is made – the label is printed, the comment card text has been written and the quilt show registration form has been filled out. Today I am going to make the hanging sleeve and the storage bag that the show requires.

Continuous bias binding for the octagons

bias binding

I followed the directions on this McCalls Quilting video.  I used a 41″ square and I got a whopping 16 yards of 2 3/4″ bias binding. I don’t need that much to bind my octagons – I will keep the leftover for binding charity quilts.

I practiced on a smaller piece of ugly fabric I didn’t mind wasting if things went wrong. They did.  The second time I got it right.

Just be sure that when you start drawing the lines across the fabric – that the seam is slanting to your left – or to the right – NOT vertical.

Whether the seam is facing right or left  – don’t draw the lines on either of the #2  sides. The #2 sides are the ones you are going to sew together to make the tube.

Here is a little paper mockup of the fabric square cut in half on the bias. This is the way you should position it on your table if you have chosen to have the seam facing left.

bias binding drawing

NOT like this.

mockup

That is is a lot of blah blah blah to tell you DON’T DRAW THE LINES ON THE #2 SIDES. Easy really – I hope I didn’t confuse you.